Playa Barrigona: the empty one at the end of a steep dirt track
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Playa Barrigona is a 600-metre beach backed by jungle rather than by buildings, twelve kilometres north-west of Sámara and reached by two kilometres of steep unpaved track. There are no facilities of any kind and nobody on duty. The centre is swimmable on a small swell; both rocky ends run currents, and the emptiness that makes the beach worth the drive is also the reason to be careful in the water.
Fakta
| Plavání | Smíšené — místy bezpečné, jinde proudy |
|---|---|
| Trhavé proudy | Open to the Pacific with no reef in front of it. The centre is swimmable on a small swell; both rocky ends run currents, and there is nobody here to notice if you get into trouble. |
| Příliv a odliv | The rock shelves at either end are only passable around low tide — check before walking to the far end. |
| Surf | Pokročilí — A beach break that works on a mid-size swell; nobody teaches here |
| Šnorchlování | Ne |
| Voda | 28 °C |
| Jak se tam dostat | Hliněná cesta — v období sucha sjízdná běžným autem — Signed turn-off the coast road, then 2 km of steep unpaved track; a normal car manages it in the dry season, a low one does not |
| Parkování | A clearing at the end of the track, free, no attendant — take valuables with you |
| Cesta ze Sámary | 30 min |
| Délka | 0.6 km |
| Písek | Very pale, coarse, backed by jungle rather than by buildings |
| Stín | Ano |
| Plavčík | Ne |
| Bandera Azul | Ne |
| Nejlepší měsíce | Dec–Apr, while the access track is dry |
| Kde to je | Playa Barrigona, Nicoya, Guanacaste — off the Sámara–Nosara coast road, 12 km north-west of Sámara |
| GPS | 9.91530, -85.60530 |
Why is Barrigona so quiet?
The track. It leaves the coast road at a signed turn and drops two kilometres to the sea, steep and unpaved, and that filters out most of the day-trip traffic on its own. A normal car manages it in the dry season if it is driven slowly; a low one scrapes, and after heavy rain the whole thing is a poor idea.
The beach at the bottom is short, pale and closed at both ends by rock, with jungle behind it instead of a road. It has a reputation from a period when a well-known actor owned land above it, which is why it appears in more searches than a 600-metre beach otherwise would — the land is private, the beach, like every beach in Costa Rica, is not.
Is it safe to swim at Playa Barrigona?
Less so than it looks. There is no reef in front of this one, so the Pacific arrives with its full swell, and the beach is short enough that the currents at either end are never far away. The middle is fine on a calm day. On any other day it is a beach to walk rather than to swim, and there is no lifeguard, no phone signal to speak of, and usually nobody else there.
What should you bring?
Everything. There is no water, no shade structure, no toilet, no soda, no attendant on the parking clearing. The tree line gives real shade in the afternoon, which is some compensation. Take valuables with you rather than leaving them in the car, which is the standard advice for any unattended parking area on this coast.
Both rock shelves are only passable around low tide, so check the tide before planning to walk to the far end and back.
Kde to je
Playa Barrigona, Nicoya, Guanacaste — off the Sámara–Nosara coast road, 12 km north-west of Sámara
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Frequently asked questions
Do you need a 4x4 to get to Playa Barrigona?
Not in the dry season, but you need ground clearance. The two-kilometre access track is steep, loose and unpaved; a standard rental car driven carefully manages it between December and April. After heavy rain it becomes a genuine four-wheel-drive road.
Is Playa Barrigona private?
No. Costa Rican law makes the first 50 metres above the high-tide line public everywhere in the country, and Barrigona is no exception. Some of the land above the beach is privately owned, and the access track crosses it, but the beach itself is open to anyone who gets there.
Is there surf at Playa Barrigona?
There is a beach break that works on a mid-size swell, and it is uncrowded because so few people make the drive. It is not a beginner wave and nobody teaches there — the nearest learner beaches are Playa Sámara inside the reef and Playa Buena Vista to the north.
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